LINCOLN ROCKS

2024 Bouldering Competition

MW Climbing is hosting Lincoln Rocks this year on Saturday, September 28th! Join us for a fun day filled with climbing and friendly competition. Spots are limited, so be sure to sign up early! Registration is now OPEN and can be completed online or in-person.

FAQs

  • Everyone who climbs. We mean it. If you climb VB to V10, you can come and participate at Lincoln Rocks!

    When we bring up climbing competitions, folks have often told us how they don't feel strong enough for a competition. We’re here to tell you YES YOU ARE.

    • You do not need to know how to do a pull-up

    • You do not need to put months into training

    • And no you do not need to climb harder

    That’s WHY we have a recreational category - it’s for recreational climbers. As a plus, beginner climbers often do well in the recreational category, especially given that it is typically the least filled category.

  • When you register early, you’ll get:

    • A discounted ticket price

    • A free event t-shirt you'll ACTUALLY love and wear

    • A prize raffle ticket

    PLEASE fill out the emailed form that will be sent to you after you purchase a ticket. This will ask you to select your difficulty category AND T-shirt size if you sign up before the t-shirt deadline.

    Every year, we have thousands of dollars in prizes that we give away to anyone who competed in a raffle.

    Whether you won your category or got dead last, you can take home prizes worth more than your registration cost - and that’s NOT even including the value of the free shirt. Talk about a great deal.

  • On the day of the event, you’ll get 3 hours to climb all the climbs in your category. Every category will have 8 total climbs that will count towards your final score. The climbs will often vary in style and test different skills so it helps to be well-rounded.

    Our setters aim for a normal distribution spread in scores for every category. All this means is that setters will aim to have most of the climbers reach the TOP of around 3-5 climbs out of 8 total climbs. If you are able to flash all 8 climbs or are getting 0% of climbs, you should adjust your difficulty category.

    On the day of the competition, please arrive 15 minute early to get your scorecard and be present for the rules meeting. We will go over how the competition is scored and any other regulations.

    This is a modified redpoint competition.

  • Tip #1-3: Do not overthink training. Slowly increase training sessions or load, otherwise an injury is waiting to happen. This happens with any sport that you go too much too soon. Climbing Coach Siawn Ou once said that the best way to get better at climbing is to not get injured. Injuries make it much harder to progress not only physically but mentally. We cannot emphasize this point enough that it is literally in our top 3 tips.

    Tip #4: Climbing is the best way to get better at climbing. For the vast majority of climbers, working on your least favorite style or moves, re-climbing routes using different beta, and challenging yourself on the wall is the best way to get better at climbing. Sure, short-term cross training might help a little, but doesn’t always translate to climbing movement.

    Tip #5: WARM UP. Do not hop on any climbs in your category until your body AND fingers are warmed up. No matter your warm-up strategy, it should take at least 15 minutes. Do not be the first person to hop on a climb at the top end of your difficulty category. Watch other people warm up on it to take note of any tricky beta the setters might have hidden. Brushing every single hand and foot hold is also a good way to force yourself to take note of every hold available to you on the route AND forces you to pause and rest. Set your mental game up for success by making sure you start the comp with a good mindset - nothing gets us more bummed by starting out the comp with fall after fall.

    Tip #6: On comp day, take breaks. After each attempt, take an assessment of your energy. Dynos may not drain your energy like a cave climb would after one attempt, so multiple attempts might not be that detrimental. However, think of your energy on comp day as a large battery. You only have so much battery for 3 hours of climbing and the best strategy is to spread your attempts across ALL 3 HOURS. Use every attempt wisely and intentionally. Many climbers will start in a full sprint only to realize they have no battery left to top the rest of the climbs. But you won’t, now that you know.

    Tip #7: Remember that falling is OKAY. That was the goal of the setters (those goobers). The real test is whether you can get up, re-assess well, and give it another try. Using data from our previous competitions, the average person takes between 4-10 tries to TOP a climb at their upper limit.

    Tip #8: You don't need to do something new for the comp. Keep as many things the same in your routine as possible. The more new things on your mind on comp day, the more stimulated and NOT CHILL you are.

    • Do not get new shoes right before a comp. Brand new shoes need time to break in before you start to trust your footwork. The break-in time varies between shoes and people, but if we had to give a number, maybe no less than 8 climbing sessions are required.

    • Don't make dramatic changes in diet on the week leading up to the event. An upset stomach does not climb well.

    • Rest at least 2-3 days before the comp: training is DONE. The best thing to do now is to rest and relax or do low-impact activities (walking).

  • Humbly, we host some of the best climbing events you’ll go to anywhere and it’s because of our team, who works hard to make this event electric. Everything is planned meticulously months ahead and the routes are tested again and again so that only the best stuff stays up - no boring climbs here.

    From custom medals for all podium finishers to the high quality t-shirts that you’ll ACTUALLY WEAR to the insane action photography of the event - we do like to make you sparkle. PLUS - we have amazing local and international sponsors that generously donate prize raffle items for our climbers.

    And for those who love the numbers: we’re data nerds. We build our own code to analyze scores and boulder quality, which means every comp only gets better. In evaluating each boulder’s data, we’re able to improve our routesetting, score efficiently and accurately, and create beautiful score separation.

CATEGORIES

  • RECREATIONAL

    Perfect category for any recreational climber! Most of the climbs will be in the V1 range. The most difficult climb will be graded V3.

  • INTERMEDIATE

    Sign up for intermediate if you flash about 70% of V2 climbs and are usually working on V4 climbs. The majority of climbs will be V3-V4.

    “Flash” is climber lingo for being able to climb a route WITHOUT falling on the FIRST try

  • ADVANCED

    Sign up for the Advanced Category if you are able to flash 70% of V4s in the gym. The lowest grade set for this category is V4. The majority of climbs in this category will be V5-6.

  • OPEN

    The lowest grade set for this category is V6. Sign up for Open if you regularly flash V6 climbs (~70%). The average difficulty of an Open climb will be V7+.

Timeline

  • Times to Climb

    There are 2 sessions to climb:

    • Session 1: 9:00 AM - Noon

    • Session 2: 2:00 PM- 5:00 PM

    If you are competing in the Recreational, Intermediate, or Advanced categories, you can sign up for any session. If you are competing in the Open category, please sign up for Session 2. Note that Session 2 competitors may not attend Session 1.

  • Finals Round

    6:00 PM - 7:30 PM

    After the Session 2 is completed, the top 5 male and top 5 female climbers in the OPEN category will compete during a FINALS ROUND.

    Each competitor will get 4 min per route for 3 routes. Competitors will be scored based on number of attempts to reach the zone hold and number of attempts to reach the top hold.

  • Medals & Prizes

    7:45 PM - 8:45 PM

    Lastly, a medals and prize raffle will commence! Medals will be given to the top 3 males, top 3 non-binary, and top 3 females in EACH category (Rec, Intermediate, Advanced, and Open). Additional awards will be given to Youth categories.

    Raffle prizes will include items from MW and from our sponsors.

$40

Registration

Once you purchase a ticket, you will be emailed a form to complete regarding your category.

Spectators are welcome to attend the event. However, spectators MUST CHECK IN at the front desk to receive an event wrist band.

Please note that to prepare for this event, take note of the following changes in gym operation hours:

MW LINCOLN ADJUSTED HOURS

  • Tuesday (9/24) - Gym is open for normal hours; One Wall Closed

  • Wednesday (9/25) - Gym is open to Members ONLY; Two Walls Closed

  • Thursday (9/26) - CLOSED

  • Friday (9/27) - CLOSED

  • Saturday (9/28): open to competitors and spectators only (i.e., no public climbing).

MW OMAHA ADJUSTED HOURS

  • Saturday (9/28): closing early at 4pm (open from 9am to 4pm)